Sleek train down to Rome, which goes as fast as 300km/h when the quality of the track allows. From base camp off Via Veneto, around the corner from the American embassy, planned to just walk around and see what happens. Lots of tiny cars parking in impossible places. Have to get very skilled at un-parking. The pic is a Photoshop synthesis of a real situation. Physically, couldn’t actually photograph both ends of the middle car at the same time.

Leave a normal space between cars, and when you return there will be a motor bike or Twizy in the space.. The Twizy is a little Renault which makes a Smart car look like a truck. Carries one person, no passengers. Deluxe version has folding windows. Intermediate has no windows and the standard version has no doors. But it did attract more attention than a nearby Lamborghini. A reviewer who was lent one said he would prefer a bike.

Settled on a nice little nearby restaurant, Locanda Bocca for everyday evening food. Lasagne, spaghetti, scaloppini and baked yellowtail made by a real Italian Momma out the back. Through the day it is just prosciutto, olives, cheese and tomatoes with funny bread from a cute deli in the next street. Lots of fancy boutique shops, but they don’t seem to be big on department stores. The mild spring weather encourages mooching about the streets or just sitting in cafes doing coffee and gelato. People here, as anywhere, make such a marvellous zoo-like passing parade.

Caught the underground over to the Colosseum for a bit of tourist flavour. Difficult to appreciate the normal scene as there were an additional 60,000 people milling about on a breast cancer awareness walk. The Colosseum? Yep, it’s big, maybe even bigger than the ‘G’, certainly higher. And all around, the touts are selling stuff. This year the item of preference is coloured selfie sticks. The ticket sellers get around on Segways.

When in Rome, don’t do as the tourists do. Bought on-line tics for the Vatican museum. Happily avoiding the worst of the queues, got straight in to the action. However, although forcing time-slots for tickets, a sardine-like density of people is allowed in. In the Sistine Chapel the whispering from the sheep-pen of the densely packed crowd would steadily increase till the loud P.A. announcement “Silenzio. No Photos”.

Grand pope mobile

The most memorable part of the Vatican visit was a display of Pope Mobiles over the ages. From people powered to horse powered to an assortment of exotic motor vehicles with accommodation for one person on a throne in place of the back bench seat. He was also given a very limited edition Ferrari Formula 1, which was auctioned for charity.

humble pope mobile

They say there are 7.2 kilometres of galleries in the Vatican Museum. Found the density of people along the way exhausting. Nowhere to sit and ponder. Mopping the brow, asked a guard if he minded if I sat on the floor. Beckoning me to follow, he unclipped a barrier and pointed to a comfy chair, indicating that I could take my good time. One of the benefits of looking old, I guess. Couldn’t help smiling a little as the envious tide of young and old swept by. Imagine that the pope might have similar feelings from time to time.

A less crowded visit to San Pietro at seven in the morning, accompanied by the devout and the true believers. Marvelled at the grandeur of the architecture and the Swiss guard with their Halberds.

Shortly after the Borghese family relocated from Siena to Rome, Camillo Borgese was appointed as Pope Paul V. And friends and family found themselves in positions of advantage. A nephew of Paul V – Scipione Caffarelli was named as Cardinal and set about establishing Villa Borghese, an extensive garden estate with a palace and gallery. Arrangements for visiting the Borghese gallery are much more civilised. People/art ratio just right. Brilliant collection of the best of the 16^th and 17^th centuries. Particularly impressed by the Raffaellos, Carravagios, Berninis and more. Our favourite is the Bernini where Pluto, God of the underworld is set on having his way with the sweet Proserpina. Convincingly, Pluto’s fingers can be seen to press into the yielding milky marble flesh of the fair maiden.

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The Opera of the moment was Alban Berg’s Lulu. Composed in 1937 in 12 tone style, it doesn’t have recognisable catchy tunes, but it is emotionally very engaging and powerful. As is the story line. Lulu, you see, is a free spirit who drives all of the men to distraction. Lulu having an affair with a countess doesn’t help matters. The men die of heart attacks or by being shot. Lulu and the countess are stabbed to death by Jack the Ripper. Really. Lots of counterpoint surrealist action. A great show, although there were times through the three hour performance when we wished they would just get on with it.

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The Trevi fountain is so romantic. Spring was in the air. The crowd were joyfully doing selfies and throwing coins in the fountain. €3,000 a day is collected and given to Caritas. In the short time that we were there, the crowd applauded as a proposal of marriage was accepted. Marvellous vibe.

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The fountain is supposed to have been built over 200 years ago, but what is that thing in the right hand of Oceanus if not a remote control? …Well?