The road North

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A year or so ago Donald Trump, yes, Ivana’s old man, made a bid to cement his Scottish roots by building a golf course. Not just any golf course, you understand, in fact it had to be the best golf course in the world. In keeping with his beliefs, he designed a family coat of arms with, among other things including American eagles, the motto “Nunquam Concedere “ loosely – never give in. Which neatly summarises his attitudes. Passed the golf course on the road north from Aberdeen and thought ‘must do lunch there’. In Peterhead they have about fifty words for wind. A few days later when we did lunch at Donald’s place, it was a nice day but the wind was ‘Coorse’. The wind, as always for Peterhead, was bitterly cold and strong enough to have to lean into. But, apparently, technically it was a Coorse wind.

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How greyish green is the valley.

greenish valley

Enjoying a week in a cottage in Wales, deep in the mountains of Snowdonia, in the shadow of snow capped Mt. Snowdon itself, surrounded by extended family. Our village is Nantlle, famous for its slate mining. Ambient temp. sometimes verges into double figures, but the bare trees, the snow on the ground, the mud and the mist feel very much like winter – and this is mid April already. In the areas without the castles of Edward I and without the slag mountains of Coal, Copper and Slate, the mountains of north Wales are rolling, rising, velvety, mossy olive green pastures rising to make a bed for the over 1 km high Mt Snowdon and its lesser cousins

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Galungan and Kuningan

Galungan is a time of big celebration. It’s when the ancestor spirits come back looking for their home. Houses and businesses of the believers have huge intricately decorated bamboo poles out front. These are called Penjors, which the ancestors are expected to remember. Preparation takes a couple of days to make the Penjor, roast pigs and make offerings. Then businesses and schools close for three days of happy time. The ancestor spirits apparently hang around for ten days.

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Rituals, Mud Dancing and Expats

Very humbling experience today at the pottery, as I sat making 1kg bowls for testing different sorts of glaze traps.  Bandem, the gun thrower, was sitting at the opposite wheel nonchalantly making 40 cm salad bowls from 5kg balls of porcelain. He was easily making 2 large bowls for each small one that I made. So, if he is so good, whatever am I doing here? It is not due to the teacher/practitioner divide, he happens to be a good teacher as well as being clever and good company.

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Toward a Greener land

“Oc health and safety” regulation has a lot to answer for. In the olden days when recycled newspaper was used to wrap meat and fish & chips, did anyone ever die of newspaper poisoning? Many kids had their first taste of entrepreneurship by collecting and cashing in old bottles and newspapers. Bali has raised recycled newspaper to an art form.

Recycled newspaper shopping bags

There is an odd sort of conundrum at the Gaya pottery. They efficiently produce in serious quantity their own good quality porcelain clay. Because it is produced in such quantity, it is freely used with not much thought of economy. Faulty pieces from the wheels, waste clay and turnings are collected for recycling. This is good as far as it goes, but it would be more ‘green’ not to have to do so much reprocessing. There is a sizeable mountain of clay to be recycled. To address this  issue, one of my current occupations is to help improve the pottery wheel skills of the team. They have for some years been easily and quickly working to an accepted standard, so teaching old dogs new tricks might not be so easy. Wish me luck. Currently chipping away on a number of fronts, introducing different techniques and approaches. Suggestions are always attempted with humour, good will and enthusiasm. Sometimes they are tried, accepted and embraced. Many times things will quietly, without apology just go back to the old way. Sometimes the old way has its own special value, as in Ketut’s unnecessarily decorated trimming chuck.

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Expecting the unexpected in Ubud, Bali

Marcello’s showpiece

With the encouragement and support of the Australian Business Volunteers organization we are delighted to return to this corner of paradise. The purpose of this visit is for me to be an ABV technical advisor at Gaya Ceramic, a pottery in Sayan, a village near Ubud. The company employs about 50 villagers to design and produce custom-made porcelain tableware for stylish hotels and restaurants, locally and by export. Their work has considerable design and technical merit, but Marcello, the owner of Gaya, ABV and myself are reckless enough to believe that my input can make a difference. Intending to spend the first couple of weeks getting hands-on experience with their clay and materials, and hoping that some promising variations on present methods might emerge, given the well-known creativity of Australians with fencing wire, baling twine and gaffer tape.

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Living in the Cotswolds

Mother nature vs. Gothic architecture.

Continually drawn to piles of old stones. Castles, Cathedrals, Abbeys, even piles of stones assembled by Mother Nature.

Bath Abbey

Bath Abbey

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In an few English country gardens

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There are some charming gardens in the Cotswolds. The Highgrove Gardens of Prince Charles, the Whatley Manor gardens and Sudeley Castle gardens vary widely in style and intent. The intent of HRH at Highgrove is environmental sustainability, the style – rambling. The intent of Whatley manor is to impress, the style – impeccably grand. The intent of Sudeley Castle is to avoid the whole estate disappearing down the vast plughole of taxes and death duties, the style – once, long ago, unspeakably grand.

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Bells and clocks

Village life is a bit like Midsommer Murders, but without the murders. – As far as we know.  The Prestbury ecclesiastical parish administers the affairs of the churches, the 730 year old St Mary’s and the other one. The members of this Parish do things like flowers for the churches, maintaining the church, ringing the bells and holding fairs in the grounds of the Priory. The bell ringing that goes on and on for hours without melody, apparently does have a structure and a mathematical pattern. The bell ringing is taken very seriously. In order to perform their duty properly, the bell ringers practice weekly, so that when ceremony demands, the bells can be rung to the standard of the society who rung their maiden peal of true Grandsire doubles comprising 5040 changes on January 30th 1884 ……in two hours and fifty seven minutes

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A Priory in the Cotswolds

We are presently engaged in a fascinating house exchange. Bruce and Maggie are enjoying warm autumnal weather in our home on the edge of the forest in Belgrave Australia, while we enjoy a month in a village near Cheltenham U.K. in the Cotswolds. It is quite possible that nothing significant has changed in cute little Prestbury since the introduction of electricity. The pubs, the post office and the store are exactly as you would expect to see in an episode of Thomas the tank engine. We have the particular pleasure of living in the 15th century Priory in the shadow of the bell tower of the very old St Mary’s church. Prestbury has the distinction of being one of the most haunted villages in Britain.

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Cross Culture

Seminyak balcony, sunset, fish & chips

Di and Garry who have been volunteers in Bali for over two years have a wealth of cross cultural tales. Given the romantic image of the European journeyman artist who goes ‘native’, marries a Balinese princess, and settles down to a life of bliss and mango salad, it is difficult to imagine the reverse. Where a Balinese marries an Ozzy and settles down happily in Perth or Darwin. Loneliness, cultural difference? Not so. Di gives examples of the Indonesians who are delighted to find that a driver’s license is obtained by skill and merit rather than by bribery. Surprised to find that there are actually rules for behaviour on the road and elsewhere. And, overjoyed that people actually obey them. Di has a list of about forty ways to know that you have been living too long in Indonesia. These are some of the more choice:

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Life to a different rhythm.

Vee said:  Fancy actually living in Bali. We only had two weeks there at a writer’s conference. It’s so beautiful…

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Paris September 2010

Old news now, but watching Cadel Evans ride up the Champs-Elysees at the conclusion of the 2011 Tour de France led to a wave of fond nostalgia for the grand old city. Following pics are from a visit for a week in September last year.

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the elusive Perceval glaze

Pottery is never far from consciousness. Was surprised to be reminded of an interesting effect in the fading architectural grandeur of Subak Tabola Inn in the Bali hills. An old nemesis had for years and years been trying to get me to imitate the famous glaze that appears on a Perceval sculpture that he owns. Now the particular blotchy glaze appears be a compromise between oxidized copper green and reduced copper red. Not easy to nail down both effects in the same firing. Perceval is said to have admitted under duress that he achieved the effect by burning old linoleum in his kiln. Have yet to meet anyone game enough to face the wrath of the neighbors by trying the lino trick. But Mother Nature does produce some neat art. When we eventually get home, must have another try for the elusive. last time Lithium seemed to show some promise as a flux, any ideas?

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The Kite Flying B team

The locals next door invited me down to the beach for kite practice, next big competition being later in September. As you will see from the clip, the wind was not up to much, but there was a bit of practice in running, jumping and dragging the 100 metre tail into place for take-off. Mr. Anom, who is the owner of the Villa where we stay, and two of the kites, has asked me to be his guest at the next competition. So it seems I have to look no further for the next obsession.

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The green green hills of Bali

Ahhh. The green hills of Bali. Soooo beautiful. But first to escape the city traffic. For wheels we have a teeny tiny Suzuki jeep of minimal brakes and many rattles. Its lack of power is seldom a problem. The traffic code is very relaxed. They often take the shortest route around traffic islands, sometimes not the one we would have chosen. The occasional traffic light is taken as a hint or suggestion. Have yet to see a right turn arrow at traffic lights, but, if intending to turn right, one maneuvers to one of the rightish lanes, and when the lights turn green, one must start moving, turning across and into the flow of oncoming traffic including weaving motor bikes. I know it all sounds suicidal, but somehow it seems to work if you just keep steadily moving into and through the target area. You imagine that I exaggerate? And this is controlled by traffic lights! Attitude to issues of navigation and Oc health and safety are also very relaxed

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Sanur Kite Festival

Much of Balinese life seems to happen in a sort of meaningless, random, slow motion. So it was a surprise to see that the tribal passions of the locals can be aroused. Not cricket or footy, and only the expats play golf, no, the real game is kite building and flying.

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Bali 2010

As Queen Helen is about to embark on another adventure as a volunteer in Bali next month, it seemed timely to recall last years Bali sojourn.

Queen Helen and followers

In  September 2010 Queen Helen had been hard at work in Bali. A gig as a volunteer with Australian Business Volunteers, working with the College of Nursing to develop a new curriculum. Must have been successful as she has been used as the keynote speaker at a graduation ceremony and is now generally known as Queen Helen of Bali.

From Queen Helen’s base camp in an apartment in a once grand Villa, a brief jaunt to Hardy’s three-story emporium of stuff for expats was a 10 minute Bemo ride. On the way out of the store, after some half-hearted shopping and the purchase of some nice flip flops, we won the STAR prize! That means a digital camcorder, a week holiday for two in a resort somewhere, or US$500 cash, all for listening to a one hour blurb. Feeling magnanimous, in mind of our uncommonly good luck, we sort of agreed. Arriving at the resort we were shocked & stunned to find that we were not the only winners of the STAR prize that morning. There were, in fact, so many winners that there was not space enough for us in the lecture theatre. But that was OK they were prepared to give us the prize anyway. I had already imaged the idea of filming the grandsons on the camcorder at length after luxuriously dining out on the US$500. But deep in my heart I knew that when, under the eyes of the supervisor, I tore away the gold foil it would be revealed that I had won the resort holiday. Yes, it was the holiday. For an admin fee of $100 one gets the use of a broom cupboard for a week. Sir would like to have a room? A bed? Food? Bla bla. Transferable though, so anyone fancying a week in a broom cupboard, let us know.

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Loire Valley – September 2010

Recently had a dream  – nine people going on tour, with all of their luggage, in a VW beetle and a sports car. The dream was most likely a reference to a trip taken to the loire valley a year earlier by a group of potters.

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Singapore 2011

A couple of days in Singapore on the way home, to see nephew Scott, Val and the little ones. Pearl, age nearly one, has made her first step to stardom by appearing in a magazine, charmingly ‘works the room’ when we go for coffee. Life is good, nine floors up the thirty something floor Regency tower. Down below a swimming pool, gym, sauna, massage complex with a set of underwater exercise machines, bike, rowing and treadmill. Just around the corner, a café with a real barista who does proper one and a half late.

Long term pottery friend Soo Kim is still managing the family pottery business. He explained that the best way is to eat is in Eating places rather than restaurants. These are often out-doors with no frills and sometimes no menus. From time to time Soo Kim brings groups of students and collectors to Australia to visit potters and galleries, so Sweetiepie sat patiently through the technical chat over dinner.

The Singapore Art Gallery is in an old colonial building with a ‘Raffles’ kind of vibe. A fascinating installation in the gallery proper was a random stack of cardboard toy cartons. These had been painted white. In the darkened room, the original coloured art work was projected onto the stack from an overhead projector. The artwork exactly fitted all of the odd angles and sizes of the relevant boxes. But is it art? Unquestionably yes, for the challenge of guessing the technicalities. Continue reading

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Birmingham 2011

Birmingham 2011

Time travel is still possible in Birmingham. From pre industrial revolution Tolkien’s water wheel flour mill, to a Victorian Sewer Pumping museum, to the National Space Centre an hour away in Leicester.

the Hobbits

J.R.R, often called the author of the century, lived in Sarehole at a formative time of life, and remembered it with enormous affection. The Mill in particular occupied an extraordinary place in his memory – the pool where he used to play with his brother and annoy the miller on a regular basis came to represent for him, much of what he valued of “old England”. This feeling was intensified and validated, in his own mind at least, by the effective destruction of the village of Sarehole as the City expanded. This caused him intense grief, but he was to live long enough to see the beginning of the restoration process. Were he to see it today, he would probably find much to disapprove of (as he disapproved of most things modern) but it would be nice to think he would at least take pleasure in the preservation of the mill and its surrounding ponds and field. The flow of water in the mill race was chancy then, as now to the Sarehole Mill ,

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Scotland Birmingham 2011

Talked about cheap airlines in the Prague blog. Being committed to the idea of a bargain, and determined not to be discouraged, we have continued to get good value from a number of so-called cheap airlines, including the one that we think might have been referred to in this video clip

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Belgium 2011

Brussels.

chocolat at its best

Think tall thin houses, chocolate, cigarette butts all over the streets, hot chocolate, Fast trains, the finest lace. And beer. Shops and shops full of chocolate and truffles, even little chocolate models of Manneken Pis. We are staying in the tall thin house of Tanya and Mathias, who stayed in our house last year while we were in Bali. Ruisbroek is a village near Brussels. We can walk from our door, catch a train and be in the centre of Brussels all in quarter of an hour, and minutes later sitting out front of a sidewalk café on the Grand Sablon, great area of town to hang out, take a coffee or beer and watch the passing fashions.

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Prague 2011

Jana & Honza from Prague used our house in Belgrave as a travel base last year. Jana’s grand house is the base for her pensione and car hire business. From our 3rd floor window we look up to the floodlit next-door mansion owned by a tennis player reported to be the 5th wealthiest man in Prague. OK neighbourhood.

Pruhonicky garden

Only four days scheduled for Prague, so the visit will be intensive, sleeping can happen elsewhere. The currency is Koruna, about 18 to the dollar, cuisine – think goulash, sausage, dumplings and beer, language inscrutable but sounds lovely, something like talking with ones mouth full of goulash and dumplings. Written language difficult to pronounce with its strings of Slavic consonants and funny accents, so glad not to have to navigate and drive. Public transport is quite slick, quick and cheap. In Oz we took Jana & Honza to the Olinda Rhodo gardens. The first day in Prague, they took us to the Prohonicky Park gardens with even more acres of Rhodos, bigger lakes, and of course, a castle. Castles everywhere.

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Aix-en-Provence 2011

Before leaving Hagetmau, went to the Intermarche to get cash from a hole in the wall. Found extremely large hole in the wall, police everywhere & no cash to be seen or had. Local lads had been at work with heavy earthmoving machinery, one assumes very politely.

hole in the wall

Travelled by small plane to the airport at Marseilles. Small aisle way and pointy overhead doors not really compatible with tall bald blokes, so blood everywhere, but only a flesh wound I am told. Met at the airport by Bernadette & Patrick who are new to homelink, enthusiastic & good fun. Pyrenees are characterised by broad green rolling acres of corn and sunflower farming, whereas cote–de-Provence is a wine region, and the vines do very well, but the land seems so much drier & rockier. Further north in Provence is lavender country, but not blooming just yet. Many happy fat Charolais cattle lounging about.

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the Pyrenees 2011

Home in France for the next two weeks is in the SW of France in the province of Landes. Not too far from Pau and Biarritz and the Pyrenees, a couple of hours south of Bordeaux. We are staying in a ‘maison de maitre’ or house of the master. Maison de Maitre is a bit of an elastic term but usually refers to a largish two-story house. Ours is probably a couple of centuries old, set on 1½ acres of rolling lawn and mature trees with a large swimming pool and well developed veggie garden. English owners Helen and Phill bought it 7 years ago ‘with their hearts, not their heads’ and have spent their early retirement since then beautifully renovating. Allowing us to enjoy such luxuries as a library/ reading room where this email is being written and a shower with a rose as big as a dinner plate and six side jets as well.

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